The prize winners for DuraVent's "What Were They Thinking?" contest are as follows:
Grand prize goes to Morg's Sawz & Stoves, second place goes to Myers Chimneys, and third place goes to Tankless Technology.
While the pictures certainly gave us a few good laughs, we have compiled a list of problems and solutions for each of the faulty installations.
Morg’s Sawz & Stoves:
- According to the L954 Direct Vent Pro installation instructions the clearance under a veranda, porch, deck or balcony: 12 inch minimum to the termination.
- This whole installation needs to be further away from overhang above. This looks like there is vinyl siding installed around the cap so the further away the better so the heat can dissipate and not overheat the siding.
- The vinyl siding standoff is installed backwards.
- The vinyl siding standoff needs to be removed, turned around, and reinstalled the correct way as shown in Figure 10 the included pdf called l950 page 4 of 16
- The heat shield.
- A heat shield that deflects heat can NEVER be made out of a combustible material.
- All shields and guards would need to be approved by the appliance manufacturer.
- Check with appliance manufacturer to verify the limitations of the maximum number of elbows and maximum length runs
- Remove the Horizontal cap
- Put an elbow outside pointing the exhaust up
- Cut a hole through the roof and run the pipe up above the roof. Use a flashing and storm collar to make the penetration water proof
- Put a vertical cap on the pipe above the roof
- You cannot go through a floor/ceiling with black stove pipe.
- You must use a rated chimney to penetrate through a ceiling/floor assembly.
- You can only tie into a masonry chimney side breaching (hole in the side of the chimney) if the appliance is in the room of the breaching.
- 18" clearance to single wall stove pipe 8" clearance to double wall stove pipe to the ceiling above.
- Abandon or remove the existing masonry chimney. We can only use this masonry chimney if the stove is in the same room as the breaching of the chimney. Or in this case in the room where the photo was taken.
- Remove the black stove pipe. It is not allowed to be anywhere but in the room where the appliance is installed.
- Install a factory built chimney correctly from the first ceiling above the appliance and on out the roof to replace the masonry chimney or extend the masonry chimney down to the ground and create a breaching into the chimney in the room where the appliance will be installed.
- Since we cannot see the floor where the appliance is installed, there could be other issues that would have to be addressed to have a safe installation.
1. Picture 1
If an appliance and venting system is designed to be concentric then the cool part about this system is that the running of the appliance does not take oxygen from the room, that has the appliance, to burn the fuel it uses to heat the air or water. We are talking about Indoor Air Quality. The open air intake is letting cold air into the room with the appliance and allowing the appliance to take air out of the room to burn the fuel.
The proper venting must always be used to safely install any appliance. If flex is an option then the appliance manufacturer recommends the diameter of the flex so it fits or has a kit that is sold that is required.
2. Picture 2
This installation traps the exhaust in an inverted drain trap, like under your sink, which is probably stopping the draft and is spilling all of the exhaust into the room with the water heater, making this a potentially deadly accident waiting to happen.
Abandon the hole in the wall and make it at least 18” above the top of the water heater. The shortest a vent pipe needs to run off of the top of an appliance is 12” vertically. You can transition to an elbow for horizontal offsets or go through a wall. The system must vertically terminate above the roof per the version of Fuel Gas Code adopted by your governing code officials.
The more straight up and down this system is the better it will draft and work.